Harbour Of My Dreams
Who Needs Florida? I Don't...
Brancaster Staithe Harbour. There are few better places to be on this earth on a summers evening when the tide is coming in (Richard Croft/geograph)
I wrote about Wells-next-Sea last week.
It wasn’t the first time I have waxed lyrical about one of my favourite towns and, as the saying goes, it certainly won’t be the last time either.
But I did feel, as I posted my blog this time last week, that I had been a little bit unfaithful to the true love of my life when it comes to marsh, mud, boats and the clink of rigging on mast.
Which is the harbour at Brancaster Staithe.
It’s as picturesque a place as you like when the tide is high; it’s juxtaposition of old and modern buildings dominating the skyline as you head, irresistibly, towards the water’s edge. A serene place now, a respected great-Aunt perhaps, amongst the small harbours that freckle the north Norfolk coast and a popular destination and base for leisure users of all types, including sailors, canoeists, water skiers, naturalists and ramblers taking a break from their travels along the Norfolk Coastal Path.
High and dry (for now) at Brancaster Staithe Harbour (Evelyn Simak/geograph)
Yet Brancaster Staithe Harbour was once a very busy port that saw regular visits from sailing ships heavy with either coal or grain, with the latter intended for the village malt house that was, at its peak, said to be the biggest building of its type in England.
Sadly, no traces of the malt house remain and trade at the harbour started to decline towards the end of the nineteenth century. Happily however, it still supports a busy local fishing industry with mussels, cockles and crabs amongst the popular delicacies landed, sorted and sold here by the doughty village fishermen.
The large central building which stands just behind the village is Dial House.
This was once a popular pub called The Victory before closing in 1917 and subsequently becoming the home for many of the local wildlife wardens that have looked after the nearby wildlife reserve on Scolt Head Island, amongst whom, the name Chesney remains King.
Busier times at a working harbour. Brancaster Staithe at work in 1911 (EF Snelling)
The building is now the owned and ‘managed’ by the National Trust and serves as the base of their popular Brancaster Activity Centre. This was badly damaged by the floods that followed a tidal surge in 2013.
It was decided at that point to completely refurbish the whole centre to incorporate both new flood mitigation technology as well as many energy efficient appliances. The refurbished building was officially declared open in July 2015.
But you don’t need the centre or any of the surrounding tourist-related paraphernalia to enjoy this special place and all it has to offer.
Just go. Sit quietly. Breathe. Look. Feel inspired.
For there are few better places to go on a long Summers evening than Brancaster Staithe harbour when the tide is slowly ebbing up the creeks.
It’s an experience well worth taking a little time out for.
…or for as long as you like.
See you there sometime.